Hotel La Villa Esponda in St. Jean Pied de Port, France

Choosing where to stay in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port is one of the first decisions many Camino de Santiago pilgrims make. A good night’s sleep, a convenient location, and a comfortable room can make those final hours before setting out much less stressful. Hotel La Villa Esponda is a straightforward, comfortable hotel located just outside the medieval walls, within easy walking distance of the Pilgrim’s Office, restaurants, shops, and the historic center. While it isn’t a luxury hotel, it offers the essentials many travelers appreciate before beginning one of Europe’s most famous long-distance walks.

We spent our first night at Hotel La Villa Esponda, a small, no-frills hotel located just outside the historic center of town. It was clean, comfortable, and exactly what we needed before beginning our Camino adventure.

The hotel occupies a building dating back to 1896 and sits directly across from the ancient ramparts that surround Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. While it isn’t located inside the medieval walls, the historic gate is only a minute or two away on foot. That meant we could easily wander through the cobblestone streets, browse the shops, visit the Pilgrim’s Office, and soak in the excitement of a town filled with people preparing to begin one of the world’s most famous pilgrimages.

Diane wisely reserved our room through Booking.com several months before our trip. After traveling from Washington, D.C., Boston, Madrid, Bilbao, San Sebastián, Pamplona, Roncesvalles, and finally Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, the last thing we wanted was to arrive tired and start searching for a place to sleep. Having our first night’s accommodations already secured allowed us to simply check in, unpack, and start enjoying the experience.

Our room wasn’t fancy, but it checked every box for a comfortable overnight stay. Diane and I each had our own twin bed, a television (where we amused ourselves by watching the French version of Wheel of Fortune despite not understanding enough French to solve a single puzzle), a modern private bathroom with complimentary toiletries, a hairdryer, fluffy towels, and a kettle stocked with instant coffee.

The toiletries came in individual packets rather than large bottles, but they were appreciated all the same. At the time, towels and a hairdryer didn’t seem particularly noteworthy. After spending days on the Camino, though, we would come to realize that those simple comforts weren’t guaranteed. La Villa Esponda wasn’t overflowing with amenities, but it provided everything we needed to relax, get a good night’s sleep, and wake up ready for our journey to begin.

The weather during our visit (late April 2026) was absolutely perfect. We spent part of the afternoon wandering through the historic streets and stopping at the Pilgrim’s Office to pick up our credentials. Holding that little passport in my hands made everything feel much more real. For months, the Camino had been something we talked about and planned for. Suddenly, it was happening.

Because La Villa Esponda doesn’t have an on-site restaurant, we headed into town for dinner. A restaurant just a couple of doors away served a delicious chicken sandwich accompanied by crispy, hand-cut French fries that reminded me why they’re called French fries in the first place. As if that wasn’t enough, Diane and I split a chocolate ice cream dessert that provided the perfect ending to our first evening in France.

Breakfast the next morning was equally memorable. We enjoyed pain au chocolat, coffee, an omelet, and a toast topped with avocado and salmon. Looking back, it was probably one of the last leisurely breakfasts we would enjoy for a while. Once the Camino began, mornings would become much more focused on getting packed up and out the door.

Looking back, La Villa Esponda wasn’t memorable because of luxury amenities or elaborate services. It was memorable because it served as our home base during those final hours before beginning the Camino. It gave us a comfortable place to rest, organize our gear, and enjoy one last relaxing evening before shouldering our backpacks and heading toward the Pyrenees the following morning.

Would I stay there again? Absolutely. The hotel was clean, comfortable, reasonably priced, and conveniently located within walking distance of everything we needed. For a one-night stay before beginning the Camino, it worked very well.

That said, if I return to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in the future, I would probably look for accommodations inside the walls of the old town. There was something special about wandering those historic streets, and I think it would be fun to spend a night right in the heart of the medieval center. Still, I have no regrets about choosing La Villa Esponda for our first Camino adventure.

When people think about the Camino, they often focus on the miles walked, the mountains crossed, or the arrival in Santiago. But every Camino begins somewhere. For us, it began with a quiet evening in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, a comfortable stay at Hotel La Villa Esponda, and the excitement of knowing that the adventure we’d dreamed about for so long was finally about to begin.

Final Call

The night before the Camino is something every pilgrim remembers. Whether you’re staying in a luxury hotel, a cozy guesthouse, or a simple room above a café, there’s a special excitement that comes from knowing your adventure is about to begin.

Have you stayed in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port before walking the Camino? Leave a comment below and tell me where you stayed and what you remember most about your first night. I’d also love to hear your recommendations for accommodations inside the old town for a future visit. If you’re planning your own Camino journey, be sure to save and share this post for later!

Sharing is caring!